Historical Restaurant Mirrors Change In Los Angeles' Food And Drink Scene
Los Angeles' noted Brown Derby restaurant played host to many stars during Hollywood's 'Golden Age.' The eatery was an example of novelty architecture, as it was built to resemble a brown derby hat. The Brown Derby was the first restaurant to serve chiffon cake, a recipe invented by an insurance salesman and later given wide distribution by Betty Crocker.
It is said that the most lasting food legacy of the Brown Derby is Cobb Salad. The dish was created by and named after Bob Cobb, one of the restaurant's owners. Bob's wife asserts that he raided the refrigerator late one night and chopped up some leftovers for dinner. Later that night, some of his Hollywood friends visited the restaurant and joined Bob in sampling his concoction. When several of them began to ask for it on later visits, the rest was history.
The Brown Derby was coined for a restaurant of the same name located in Malverne, New York that was a popular vaudeville hangout. The initial Brown Derby in Los Angeles, known also as the Little Hat, opened its doors in February 1926, directly across from the Ambassador Hotel. It was frequently the site of after-parties following events at the Coconut Grove nightclub. This was the only Derby that was actually constructed in the shape of a hat.
A second LA Brown Derby restaurant was opened on Vine Street, near the famous Hollywood and Vine intersection, on Valentine's Day in 1929. Other Derbies were then constructed in Beverly Hills and in East Hollywood. The latter had a car cafe that followed the then-novel drive-in trend.
The Brown Derby in Hollywood closed down in 1985. The shell of the restaurant was restored and placed atop a strip mall on Wilshire. It is now colored orange and known as the Cafe SheeRi.
In mid-2004, the Derby along with adjacent lots were purchased by a realty company and faced demolition to clear space for a condominium complex. A coalition of interested parties, called 'Save The Derby' sought to prevent the restaurant from being destroyed by getting it designated as an official historical landmark. Validating their efforts, in May 2006 the LA City Council voted unanimously to recognize the entire edifice as an official Historic Cultural Monument of the City of Los Angeles.
In one 'I Love Lucy' show episode Lucy, Ethel and Fred have lunch at the Brown Derby. During the show, Lucy inadvertently causes a waiter to dump a plate of food on famed actor William Holden. Currently, there is a copy of the Hollywood Brown Derby at the Disney-MGM Studios in Florida's Walt Disney World Resort.
Matt Paolini is a food writer for CityBook.com, the family-safe online yellow pages, which carries an extensive directory on Los Angeles fast foods and carry out.
Used & New Mirrors:
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